Page 27 - The Katten Kattwalk - Fall 2025 - Issue 30
P. 27
By Cynthia Martens*
rtisan craft cannot be sidelined in a world
of fast fashion, says Italy’s leading fashion
trade associations, which convened on
AOctober 15 for a discussion with the
Ministry of Enterprises and Made in Italy (MIMIT).
Representatives from Confindustria Moda, CNA
Federmoda, Confartigianato Moda, the Camera
Nazionale della Moda Italiana and the Fondazione
Altagamma were in attendance, with the next
“Fashion Table” slated for November 17.
The meeting came on the heels of a new package
of fashion-related measures approved by the Italian
Senate. The amendments create a new certification production chain. The credibility of an entire sector,
system to increase traceability and tout compliance composed primarily of micro and small artisan
with labor laws, which many view as a selling point businesses that guarantee quality, employment and
for consumers who demand greater supply chain connection to territory, is on the line. Made in Italy
transparency. Small- and medium-sized businesses is not a label, it is an entire value chain.”
are the backbone of the Italian economy, and for In a press statement, Senator Adolfo D’Urso said
many operating in the global fashion sector, the the newly approved legal measures were intended
“Made in Italy” label serves as a crucial marketing to “firmly defend Italian fashion, to protect its
tool, representing good quality, craftsmanship and reputation and the values that have made it
adherence to fair labor practices under Italian law.
synonymous with beauty, quality, and authenticity.”
Recent investigations into subcontracting by Italian The new package of amendments introduces a
luxury brands have threatened the reputation of the voluntary supply chain certification and audit
“Made in Italy” brand. Italy’s antitrust regulator, the system. In addition, companies that engage
Autorità Garante della Concorrenza e del Mercato subcontractors will be obligated to include legal
(AGCM), fined the Giorgio Armani fashion group clauses in their contracts requiring subcontractors
and one of its units €3.5 million (approximately to comply with applicable regulations and
$4 million) for unfair commercial practices last demand evidence of employment law and tax law
August, just a month before the designer’s death compliance. Certification will be valid for one year
at 91 years old. The company denied allegations and subject to renewal upon audit. MIMIT will
of wrongdoing and indicated that it would appeal. establish a public register of certifications, and
Additionally, earlier in the year, news broke that certified companies can market their products using
national fashion gems Valentino and Loro Piana the designation “filiera della moda certificata”, or
were under investigation for abusive practices in “certified fashion supply chain”. The use of this
their supply chains.
tag by companies that have not completed the
In a joint release, Confartigianato Moda and CNA certification process will be sanctioned by the
Federmoda urged the Italian government to take AGCM, with fines reaching €50,000, or about
strong action, stating that “recent investigations $58,000 at the current exchange rate.
into iconic Made in Italy companies have revealed * Cynthia Martens is a former Katten Intellectual Property
opaque practices and profound imbalances in the associate who now serves as outside counsel to the firm.
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